Oliviero Toscani, Benetton’s shock photographer, dies aged 82
3 min read
Fashion photographer Oliviero Toscani has died aged 82. File: [Reuters]
Oliviero Toscani, the photographer behind Benetton’s provocative ad campaigns, has passed away at 82. Toscani, known for his bold and often controversial work, died on January 13, 2025, after battling amyloidosis, a rare and incurable disease that affects the body’s organs and nerves. His wife, Kirsti, confirmed the news on Instagram, expressing deep sorrow at the loss of her beloved husband. Toscani had been hospitalized on Friday near his Tuscan home and had previously shared his struggles with his condition, including a dramatic weight loss of 40 kilograms, revealing his disinterest in living a life diminished by illness.
Born on February 28, 1942, in Milan, Toscani’s work spanned the worlds of fashion, culture, and social commentary. The son of a renowned photographer, he attended art school in Zurich before embarking on a career that saw him make significant contributions to some of the most influential fashion magazines, including Vogue and GQ. Over the years, Toscani’s photography captured the essence of cultural icons, including Andy Warhol, John Lennon, and Federico Fellini. However, it was his work with Benetton, where he served as art director for 18 years, that solidified his place in photographic history.
Toscani’s work with Benetton was revolutionary. Known for his use of racially diverse models and for pushing boundaries in advertising, he transformed the brand’s image. The “United Colors of Benetton” logo became synonymous with Toscani’s campaigns, which tackled global social issues, ranging from racism to war and human rights. The brand’s advertisements frequently stirred controversy, with some of his most infamous campaigns including images of a soldier’s blood-soaked clothes from the Bosnian War and the iconic photo of David Kirby, a man dying of AIDS. The latter image sparked a global outcry and led to boycotts of Benetton.
Toscani’s work went beyond traditional advertising. His photos often featured deeply human and political themes, challenging society’s complacency on issues like religion and the death penalty. One of his most controversial advertisements featured three human hearts, each labeled with different racial identifiers: black, white, and yellow. This powerful visual statement criticized racism in fashion. Another infamous campaign showed a priest and a nun sharing a kiss, an image that was eventually banned in many countries. Toscani argued that these campaigns were necessary to raise awareness and provoke discussion about global issues.
In 2000, Toscani parted ways with Benetton due to disputes over his final campaign with the company, which depicted death row prisoners alongside the caption “Sentenced to Death.” Toscani defended his work, explaining that it was not about promoting products but about raising consciousness on crucial matters of social justice. “I exploit clothing to raise social issues,” he said in an interview with Reuters, underscoring his belief that traditional advertising was based on false promises of beauty and success.
Beyond his Benetton years, Toscani continued to stir controversy. In 2007, he shot an anti-anorexia campaign featuring French model Isabelle Caro, whose gaunt appearance exposed the devastating effects of the eating disorder. The haunting image of Caro, showing her emaciated body, went viral and raised awareness about the fashion industry’s unhealthy standards. However, it was banned in several countries, including Italy, due to its graphic nature. Toscani’s ability to provoke deep conversations about body image and mental health was a hallmark of his later career.
Toscani briefly returned to work with Benetton in 2017 but was cut off from the brand in 2020 after comments he made about the Morandi Bridge disaster in Genoa, which killed 43 people. Despite this, his legacy remained intact, with his work continuing to inspire generations of photographers and advertisers to challenge the status quo and use their platform for change.
Oliviero Toscani’s passing leaves a significant void in the world of photography and advertising. His visionary approach to storytelling through images helped reshape the way brands communicate with audiences. Toscani is survived by his wife Kirsti and their three children, Rocco, Lola, and Ali. Benetton, in honoring Toscani’s legacy, released one of his iconic 1989 photographs, expressing gratitude for the photographer’s ability to explain difficult topics without words, leaving behind a legacy that will continue to resonate worldwide.
About The Author
